Mid-August brought a snap of cold that hasn’t quite let up. It isn’t cold, really, it’s more like that persistent fall chill that turns the colors of the leaves.

This evening I’m sitting on a ridge above McCarthy Creek, where it’s eight in the evening and the sun is setting. Only two months ago I could stay out all night and it would never grow dark. Things change so fast here in Alaska, which I suppose is what I love so much about the place.